solarizing lith film

[Luis Ortega]

I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their own
Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm negs
onto 8 x 10 lith sheets in hopes that getting a good solarization effect on
film will let me then print multiple copies, compared to solarizing prints.
I have some experience with solarizing BW prints but I'm not getting
anywhere with the lith film.

Can anyone please advise me on how to solarize lith film or point me to a
source that might answer my question?

Thanks a lot.

[Pat]

As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only
black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize.

I did a quite search and found this article
http://photography.about.com/library/weekly/aa091399c.htm
It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will
help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put
is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see
someone staying with traditional methods.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.

[Luis Ortega]

Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a
different
developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the
film that can get solarized.

[Mark Dunn]

You need to use a continuous tone developer. It's quite possible; I used to
make copy transparencies on Kodalith 2556 and IIRC used dilute print dev. Of
course, printing from negs, you'll then have solarised positives which
you'll need to contact print again to get a neg for printing. That's why you
might want to try solarising prints, copying them, then printing from the
new neg. To get a solarised neg direct you need to print on direct positive
film. Or you could reversal process the lith film. Good luck, and well done
for helping. keep wet photography alive

[Dankwart]

I used to simply solarize a print. I exposed the print on a higher-contrast
paper. Then I started to develop it in a water-diluted developer (about 1:5)
until the first blacks came out. Then I solarized the print while in the
diluted developer with a 15 W bulb and completed the development normally.
I never found the final print contrasty enough. Therefore I re-photographed
the print, creating a new negative from which I could print (high contrast)
as much as I wanted..
Dankwart

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